Agra: Fort & Baby Taj

Left: Although less elaborate, the Itimad-ud-Daulah has many design elements that foreshadow the Taj Mahal. It was the first Mughal structure to be built entirely out of marble. The tomb features fine marble latticework passages and ornate inlaid stone work.

November 11, 2004 Journal continued:
The other place I visited today was Baby Taj "Itmad ud dalah" It was ... let me think, a tomb erected in honor of Akbar's son's second wife's parents or something like that. Essentially, much of the same work done on the Taj was copied from this smaller less ostentatious version. The inlaid stones are not "precious" and the interior was mostly painted with gold instead of carved in gold like the Taj. Still, if you were to see this place, you'd be very pleased. I wouldn't mind having my gardens like this. In the gardens water was used very intelligently. In many of these palaces and gardens, water ran through this building and collected in pools with rose petals. The effect improved the smell and cooled the marble buildings. This was particularly true of the red fort in Delhi which had the river diverted to run the length of the interior palace rooms. It supposedly acted like pre electric air conditioning. Of course, you only got this treatment if you were the cream of the crop. Everyone else-- they got crap.

Journal continued:
Also today I went to red Fort, the one built by Akbar the great and improved upon by his son and grandson. This particular fort had three gates that had six doors with spikes so that elephants couldn't charge them. Invading forces would have to go uphill with hot oil pouring down on them and pushing through these gates and winding their way through a fairly narrow corridor. Evidently the fort was never taken. A siege was sufficient to make them surrender. With all the thought that went into protecting the fort from the outside, someone forgot to include agricultural plans that would allow them to survive a siege. SO, it fell, I don't remember to whom and how many times, but it fell. The inner palaces and the harem are of course crazy elaborate and it is fun to imagine them with all the silks and carpets and the like. I guess if you imagine that you should also imagine it without the smog so that the view of the Taj across the river could be clearly seen. Unfortunately, it isn't clear. Even with all the Natural gas vehicles they have running around here now... it is still smog city!

Right: A man works on replacing some of the broken stones for the exterior of the Baby Taj. I believe that this is the same way that they used to cut marble back in 1628 as well.

Above: Outside of the fort, a travelling holy man awaits a few rupees. Evidently, with this type of holy man, clothes are optional. I am glad he chose to wear a little something.

Right: Diwan-i-khas (the hall of private audiences). This is where the shah held all of his private meetings. This beautiful hall is deep inside the fort and very peaceful.

Construction of the fort along the bank of the Yamuna river was begun by Akbar in 1565. Additions were made up until the rule of his grandson, Shah Jahan. The fort was built primarily as a military structure, but during Shah Jahan's time, it was upgraded to a palace. This was ultimately Shah Jahan's prison as well, when Aurangzeb overthrew his father in 1658.

Left: Under the columns of the Diwan-i-khas.

Right: The balcony which was part of the fort and palace built by Shah Jahan. This was ultimately the only view of the outside world that the Shah got after he was overthrown by his loving son Aurangzeb. One little bit of mercy-- from the balcony, the Shah could see the Taj Mahal where his beloved wife (for whom he built the tomb) was laid to rest. Unfortunately, you can't see it now... the smog gets in the way. What a pity!

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